3.We’ll wake up really early and head towards Devlokham mountain, arriving there before sunrise. This will allow us the ideal vantage point to search for markhor. The markhor (Capra falconeri) is the largest wild mountain goat species. It has striking spiral horns that can grow five feet long for mature males. Its name means “snake killer” in Persian, most likely referring to its wide hooves that can be use against serpents. We’ll spend the day observing markhor and doing a typical Central Asian picnic, then drive back to Anjirob to spend the night.

4.Transfer to the Bartang valley. We’ll set off for one of the most remote valleys of Tajikistan, the Bartang. Named for the Bartang river, a tributary of the Panj, and thus the Amu Darya, this area is achingly beautiful. The drive itself is long, perhaps 10 hours. The 334 kilometers (207 miles) take time because of the long stretches without tarmac. The drive to Bartang is incredibly scenic as we follow the Panj river upstream before turning East where the Bartang meets it. We’ll have several stops along the way to take photos, have tea, and get delicious snacks.

The Bartang valley remains one of Tajikistan’s wildest and most remote regions. This of course, makes this one of our planet’s last wildernesses. The vast area has a low population density – around twenty small villages are scatters through the valley. The inhabitants engage in subsistence agriculture and depend on livestock. The Bartang has a high population of both ibex and Marco Polo sheep. These high mountain ungulates support a population of snow leopards. Three conservancies operate in the area, protecting over 100,000 hectares of wild habitat and employing over 50 locals. Over the last decade, these local organizations have played a critical role for conservation; almost eliminating wildlife losses due to poaching.

Here, we’ll stay with another family in a local guest-house.

5-9.

We’ll spend six days tracking snow leopards. Before we get to Bartang, ranger teams will already be on the job, tracking the cats and keeping up with movement in the area through camera traps, spotting, and collecting information from shepherds. Based on any intel, we’ll plan out our six days of tracking.

An Average Day In Bartang

Snow leopards are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk. Our spotters will leave at dawn. They will scan the ridge-lines and slopes for wildlife, send word if they see something. We will

Based on the days plans, guests accompany the spotters and trackers to various parts of the valley as they search for the snow leopard. Spotters, trackers, and the field team always point out interesting birds and wildlife, as well as share details about local life and culture.

There will be opportunities to visit some local homes and villages as well. These visits are always an important way to understand what life is like in this beautiful region of the world, and how essential communities are to conservation. Breakfast, lunch, dinner at our home base, or packed.

11.Khorog and Alichur. We’ll reconnect with the Panj river and driver further south to the regional capital of Khorog. Here we’ll have lunch and resupply, before heading East on the legendary Pamir Highway to Alichur. We’ll cross the Koitezak pass (4,271 meters) to descend into the vast plateau known as Alichur plain. This is now the Eastern Pamir. The landscape is different, reminiscent of Tibet or Eastern Ladakh.

We’ll stay in Alichur with a local family.

11.We’ll explore the area of the nearby Burgut Conservancy. We’ll learn about life in this region and also search for its famous inhabitants, the argali. Argali are the largest wild sheep, and get their name from being famously described first (in the West) by Marco Polo. Burgut conservancy offers some excellent opportunities for Marco Polo sheep and snow leopards. We’ll spend the morning tracking them with a break for some cultural exploration, stopping for lunch and a yak ride, a traditional form of transport. In the afternoon, we’ll return to tracking Marco Polo sheep, before heading back to Alichur for the night.

12.We will depart Alichur to head South, towards the Wakhan Corridor.  Our destination for the day will be Zong, nestled on the Afghan border. We’ll get there by crossing the Khargush pass (4,344 m). Sometimes you can see yak and camel caravans making their way in Afghanistan from the pass. It’s almost like looking into the past. The roads we travel in this region once only had yak and camel caravans. We’ll get to Zong in the early afternoon. We’ll do a short hike through the villages and check out some Bronze Age petroglyphs. Unfortunately there’s also a lot of Soviet-era Russian graffiti. After our hike, we can take a dip in the nearby hot springs. At Zong we’ll reconnect with the Panj river, but this time, going downstream.

Overnight in guest-house.

13.We’ll continue downstream on the Panj towards Khorog. Stopping to see an ancient Buddhist stupa, built during the Kushan Empire, which rules this region between the 1st and 3rd centuries CE. We’ll also visit a small little museum dedicated to an 18th century Ismaili scholar, poet, and musician at Yamg village. We’ll also get to visit some impressive Silk Road fortresses, the Yamchun and the Kaha-Kaha fortress. The Yamchun is ancient and in ruins. Built in the 3rd century BCE by Zoroastrians, the fortress is locally called the Zamr-I-Atisht Parasht, translating to fortress of the fire worshippers. The Kaha-Kaha is right on the Afghan border and its ruins are still in use by Tajik border guards. We’ll make our way to Khorog by the evening and stay at the Khorog Serena Inn.

14.Before leaving Khorog, we’ll take in the two popular sites here. Khorog is the administrative capital of the region we’ve spent all this time in: Gorno – Badakhshan. We’ll visit the botanical garden and the Ismaili Jamaat-Khana, or Mosque. The Ismailis, led by the Aga Khan, are the dominant religious group in the region now. The Aga Khan has an outsized presence in the area, funding or operating many major things in town, such as a branch of the Central Asian University as well as the hotel we stay at, the Serena. After this, we’ll drive downstream along the Panj and stop overnight in Kalai Khumb.

15.We’ll get back to the city around lunch time. A relaxed evening at your hotel.

16.We’ll drop you at the Dushanbe airport for a flight home!